a Rioja Province unfolded before us like a brick-coloured landscape with snow-capped Famatino Mountain, which seemed like a castoff bride.

We came here also to try the typical 'mate' tea. Our guide Marcelo, a charismatic middle-aged man, with long grey strands tied up in a pony tail, told us that “yerba” – its ingredient – can only be purchased in Argentina. The gauchos from Patagonia and Pampas would surely agree that this bitter beverage is quite a treat when taking a break in the shade cast by cacti. Marcelo took a package of herb powder out of his pouch.